Whenever you do some electronics project there’s a good chance at least a few wires have to be routed around between boards, connectors and such. When you want to do it well organized it’s usually hard to find a proper cable duct, that’s why I spend some time in OpenSCAD to write a fully customizable version. With a few settings you get a 3D model that’s easily printable.Continue reading “Customizable cable duct”
This box contains a Raspberry Pi running the fabulous OctoPrint / OctoPi, a 5 V power supply and an SSR. It allows you to remotely turn on and off your attached 3D printer, either by using the web interface, by sending G-Code or with a custom system command, which is needed to use the feature through the Telegram plugin. Two hardware buttons are also available to power on/off the printer or send a shutdown command to properly power off the Pi.
Since my last post about getting started with underwater photography I kept taking photos and almost always have my camera with me when I go diving. Here are some more photos from various dives.
Update time! The CoreXY Laser Engraver has been updated with a motorized Z axis and numerous other enhancements… like more laser power. Har Har Har!
When Jogi posted his make on Thingiverse he already added many improvements over my initial design, like cable chains, larger build area and overall cleanliness (I’ll address this one in Mk3 😉 ). We started discussing about a Z axis and it got me hooked up right away. Here’s the result!
When it comes to 3D printing extruders there are many variants but basically two different types: direct drive and bowden extruders. My 3D printer, an Original Prusa i3 MK2S comes with a direct extruder and shows superb printing quality. But just for fun and the sake of getting familiar with bowden extruders I designed a new extruder from scratch.